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Hardinge Manual Lathe

Manuals of various lathe makes and models. An icon used to represent a menu that can be toggled by interacting with this icon. Manual: Hardinge Speed Lathe. 5C collet closer. Quick action cross slide. Coolant tank and pump. 220 volts, 3 phase. Bridgeport, CT 06607.

Hardinge Spindle Bearing Replacement

By 'Gunner Asch'

[Webmaster's note: I corresponded with Mark (Gunner) a number of times on this outstanding procedure, originally posted in the Rec.Crafts.Metalworking usegroup. I was primarily interested in any potential changes needed for an HLV-H, and in clarifying some questions I had about certain statements which were not clear to me, but the details and clarifications he gave me seem to be applicable to most of the original list of Hardinge products. These changes are incorporated in the procedure below. This is not a difficult process, but it does require an understanding of basic machining and maintenance techniques. The main intent is to give the reader the level of confidence needed to do the job himself.]

'Here is how I do spindle bearings on DVs, AHC/HC, etc. Please note that this is written with the later 'two bearing' design in mind. Some older Hardinge lathes, such as the HLV-B, use three bearings on the spindle – an angular contact pair on the front and a less expensive ball bearing at the rear. In this design, all of the axial force on the spindle is absorbed by the front bearing pair. That is, they act as a thrust bearing as well. The rear bearing is designed in such a way that it is captive along the spindle but the outer race floats inside the bore of the headstock. On that spindle, it is a pain because there are two locking ring nuts at the extreme left end that hold the entire stack of inner races and spacers tight on the spindle. These nuts are a castellated affair that is recessed inside the headstock casting, and requires a special wrench to be fabricated, while the later nuts are conventional pin types. Hardinge does improve their designs as they go!

Step by step procedure:

1. Remove collet closer assembly.

2. Remove bakelite/nylon/aluminum handwheel (if equipped). A couple of tapered wooden framing shims are useful for getting the plastic types off.

3. Remove rear cover over spindle pulley (if equipped…usually on DSMs, HC/AHC. It has two small Allen screws diametrically opposed. Loosen them up and tap the cover with a soft hammer. It should come loose. Put an Allen wrench in one of the screws and pull while you are tapping.) On the HLV machines, it will be necessary to remove the gearbox casting on the left end to gain needed access to the spindle.

4. The drive pulley is now exposed. Open motor compartment, and remove the nut from the elevator screw on the motor plate. Lift the motor plate (heavy) and place a chunk of 4x4 under it, making sure it doesn’t shift.

5. If the lathe has an electric brake, remove the two cap screws holding it down and get it out of the way.

6. Remove the primary drive belt from the motor pulley.

7. The variable speed drive yoke floats free. Push the axle towards the tailstock. Sometimes it’s helpful to tie a piece of strong wire to the yoke and lift it up, securing it so the tension is off the secondary belt. The remote speed control units like the HLV-H have a motor driven jackscrew that you can raise the yoke with.

8. Pushing the axle as far to the right as possible allows the axle to come completely out of the left bearing, leaving a gap big enough to slip the flat belt out.

9. Once the belts are removed, check the disk bronze center for slop..often they are worn and will cause vibration at high speeds. They can be bored and bushed if needed.

10. Using a couple stiff wire hooks, lift the secondary flat belt from the spindle pulley, and holding your tongue in the proper corner of your mouth, pull it out the top of the headstock (the rear opening or end, as appropriate.) Note that on earlier models of the HLV-H, you must also remove the reverse tumbler gear to get the belt entirely out of the machine. The manual will show you the short procedure for that.

11. Using a pin wrench, remove the nut (called a 'spindle nut' in the Hardinge HLV-H parts manual - see drawing below) holding the spindle pulley to the spindle.

12. Tricky part here - sometimes the spindle pulley comes out very easily. Sometimes it’s a bitch. It’s cast iron so be damned careful on the next few steps or you will crack the pulley.

A. You can sometimes use the flat end of a crowbar, from the motor compartment, to free the pulley. Careful where you put it! Make sure you get behind the body of the pulley! Any pressure on the flange around the belt groove will break the pulley.

B. I use a puller made from a chunk of 1' x 1' x 4' CRS with two holes spaced the diameter of the pulley, inserting two pieces of 3/16' all thread and a couple of nuts and washers to pull sticky pulleys. Place a thin piece of wood on the end of the spindle, place the bar on the wood and place a nut and washer on the end of each piece of all thread and get them behind the pulley. You can use the spindle lock slots in the flange to get the washers closer to the center of the spindle. Put a nut on each section of all thread, and tighten them down, using the CRS bar as the puller, and jack the pulley from the spindle.

13. There is a 3/16 key, so save it with the pulley. I like to buff up the inner bore of the pulley with Scotchbrite so it’s a clean slip fit on the spindle.

14. The rear (left hand) bearing is now exposed. This bearing seems to go bad more frequently than the front one, perhaps because the ubiquitous belt dust more common with vari-speed drives and dirty shop air can enter it more easily. The back face of the belt pulley and small gaps is its only real protection – not as good as an integral dust shield. There is a basic labyrinth type of arrangement on the front nose ring that reduces debris penetration, especially if the optional splash shield is routinely used.

15. Use a block of wood as a cushion and thump the spindle toward the tailstock. It will move out of the headstock, leaving the bearings and spindle nose ring behind.

16. Remove the spindle carefully, and place it in a safe secure place. It’s as hard as a whore’s heart, but dropping it will damage the nose or threads.

17. Remove the nose ring from the front of the headstock. You can try to save the gasket if possible, but it's not expensive from Hardinge. If not, manila file folder stock is about the right thickness.

18. You can now see both the front and rear bearing inside the headstock plus the preload cylinder suspended between them.

19. Take a steel rod, extend it through the front (right hand) bearing and gently tap around the center race of the rear (left hand) bearing, driving it outwards to the left. You may have to gently offset the preload cylinder radially a smidgen to get access to the edge of the inner race and have a lip visible to drive against, since the inner race is close to the same ID as the cylinder. Normally it will drop a little once the spindle is removed. As you tap out the inner race, chances are good that the race will come unglued and all the balls will fall out, ditto with the front (right hand) bearing. That’s normal and not a cause for concern. Occasionally with luck, the outer race will come out with the inner one, but don’t count on it.

20. Reverse the process, and do the same for the front bearing.

Slide out the preload cylinder. Note the date marked on the cylinder. It’s traditional for a mechanic to record the date the bearings were replaced or installed, using an indelible marker on the cylinder. This gives a good reference as to how long the bearings have lasted. Please continue the tradition!
The preload cylinder is matched to the lathe headstock and forms the first level of accuracy with respect to the bearing preload. If you drop it or change its dimension in any way you’re in trouble, so be careful with it!

21. Make a stiff tool from 1/2' bar stock, like a long chisel with a 45^o bend in one end and a semi-circular wood chisel end ground on it. It needs to be at least 2' longer than the headstock and have an offset length of perhaps 3/4'. Make the bend first, and then cut the short end to final length and grind the chisel end. It just needs to clear the ID of the outer race and reach down to the race surface itself. I have made several types of tools, and this is as easy as any

Hardinge Hsl Lathe Manual